TRENCH 2022

The history of the trench coat has been traced back to its origins. The word “trench” refers to the trenches used in warfare. The trench coat is believed to have been created during World War I when trench warfare was widespread. Due to the rapid development of new weapons, the war resulted in a significant increase in casualties, forcing soldiers to fight from within trenches. To protect soldiers under these harsh conditions, the British government commissioned Burberry to create what became known as the “trench coat.”

Instead of delving into the details of WWI or the history of the trench coat, I’ll leave that to the experts and return to the main topic. Simply put, the trench coat was created for soldiers who had to fight in extreme conditions. As I pored over various books, I came across letters written by soldiers expressing their gratitude for the trench coat. This led me to ponder: What kind of presence did the trench coat hold for soldiers? It felt as though this could be a hint for creating AKI’s trench coat.

When imagining a traditional trench coat, certain features come to mind: the gun flap, designed to soften the recoil when firing a machine gun; the epaulets, added to prevent straps from slipping off the shoulders, which were also used during the war as handles to pull injured soldiers to safety; the umbrella yoke, which prevented rain from seeping in. These details were crafted to reduce the physical burden on the wearer.

With these thoughts swirling in my mind, I arrived at a realization. During that era, when soldiers had no moments of peace, the trench coat was more than just a functional garment to protect them from the elements. It was perhaps a reassuring companion for soldiers heading into battle. The trench coat, I imagined, was something that also protected their hearts.

In a world where we now hope for peace, I envisioned the form of the trench coat I wanted to create. I decided to carry forward the keyword “protection” and imbue the garment with a “man-made” scent. My goal was to create a piece that harnesses human power not to harm others, but to embody a positive human spirit.

First, I chose to remove all the functional details that were essential during wartime. Since there’s no longer a need to hide in the grass, and we can walk freely and confidently in the modern era, I deliberately used two shades of khaki, traditionally considered military colors, and incorporated a standout design with contrasting angles. I added leaves that flutter with each step to the front, and everything was made asymmetrical to express a sense of freedom.

This is a garment that can be worn because we live in peaceful times. When you put it on, I hope it makes you feel as though you’ve donned a strong and reassuring armor.